Prosciutto Porcini Pork Tenderloin with Porcini Cream Sauce – 2014 Tempranillo Reserve
The brightness of the wine makes it a great counterpoint to the dish, and the slight Iberian funk from the graciano works in conjunction with the porcini elements.
1 heaping tablespoon powdered porcini + ¼ cup loose porcini pieces, crumbled lightly in hand
1 tablespoon each lightly chopped fresh thyme and marjoram + 2 sprigs each, bruised with the flat of the knife to release oils
1 smallish shallot, minced, around 1 tablespoon
4 small cloves garlic, peeled 2 cloves sliced paper thin or Microplaned, 2 peeled and cracked
2 tablespoons good quality aged balsamic vinegar
3 to 4 ounce package of sliced prosciutto
½ pint heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
1 1¼ pound pork tenderloin, trimmed of all silverskin
Neutral flavored oil such as grape seed as needed
1-2 tablespoons butter as needed
Salt and pepper to taste
Pour 2 cups boiling water onto the dried porcini pieces. Dust the pork with porcini powder, chopped herbs, scatter with or rub garlic over, then season with salt and pepper.
Stretch plastic wrap onto a cutting board. Put the pork on it and wrap slices of prosciutto in a tight spiral wrapping the tenderloin so it looks like a barber’s pole. Start at the skinny end and overlap by at least 25% while holding the prosciutto taut. Wrap so that each piece ends at the same place. Place seam-side down at bottom of plastic wrap and wrap tightly. Place in refrigerator for 30 minutes or longer.
Remove meat from fridge and unwrap, keeping seam down. Heat oven to 400°F. Heat a large heavy pan over medium. Remove porcini pieces from water and squeeze dry. Chop into small bits.
When oven is ready and pan is hot, lightly film the pan with oil. When hot, add 1 tablespoon butter to pan and when it stops foaming, set the pork, seam down, into the pan. Lightly press so the prosciutto crisps and flattens. Cook all over ‘til golden, then transfer to a small roasting pan and place in center of oven. Cook for 10-11 minutes or until cooked through. Remove from oven and pour off juices for sauce. Tent with foil and allow to rest.
While pork goes into oven, make the sauce. Take the pan pork cooked in, and film with oil. Add 1 tablespoon or 2 of butter, and when done foaming, add the shallots and herb sprigs, the chopped reconstituted porcini, and the two cracked cloves of garlic. Swirl pan until aromas rise up and garlic starts to turn golden and shallots soften. Add balsamic, reduce by 80%, then add the porcini water. Reduce by 80%. Add the cream. Stir gently and reduce until sauce caramelizes (it will turn a dark tan and sweeten up a bit) and coats the back of a spoon without running off.
Taste for balance, adjust seasoning if needed, then reduce heat to lowest setting. Pour any juices from pork into sauce, and then slice the pork into roughly ¼-inch slices using a razor sharp or sharp serrated knife. Tile out and drizzle with sauce. Serve right away.
Chef’s Notes: I served this with roast carrots and crisp sautéed herbed spaetzle to great effect. For a vegetarian option, roasted Portobello could work, spaetzle made with a touch of pimenton de la vera and porcini powder, or roasted inch-thick rounds of potatoes dusted with porcini powder all might sub in for the pork.
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen